Jury Duty: I'm Ready to Serve

I’ve always wanted to serve on a jury – even before the show “Jury Duty” came out on Amazon Prime in 2023. But I didn’t want it to be any type of jury duty. If selected for service, I wanted it to be a murder trial. I grew up watching CSI and Law & Order: SVU and imagined myself being a fair and impartial judge, able to distinguish which witnesses on the stand were lying and reach a verdict that represented the actual, factual, objective truth. I wanted to be the one to exonerate a falsely accused defendant or properly punish someone who caused devastating harm. Now, I know that’s not how jury duty works. You don’t get to choose which case you’re assigned to, if you’re even selected to serve at all. Regardless, if I was going to be a juror, I wanted it to be exciting and meaningful.

My jury service summons arrived a couple of weeks after I’d been laid off from my job. The job hunt was not going well. On top of that, I was getting married in a month. I didn’t want all of my newfound “free time” to be spent scanning the Internet for job posts or getting lost in the details of wedding planning. When my notice arrived in the mail, I was excited. Jury duty no longer felt inconvenient. In fact, it was convenient! It would give me something to do in the days leading up to my wedding, after which I could return to full-time job hunting. This was my time to serve.

This was my time to serve.

JURY SUMMONS

Entering the juror waiting room, I was shocked to see how many people were there. Turns out, I was one of 187 people summoned that day. Looking around, I was surrounded by a cross-section of San Francisco residents in what was likely the first time I was in a room with equal representation from all walks of life in this city. We watched a couple of informational videos on the importance of jury duty and how to be aware of implicit bias. They felt a bit like propaganda, but they weren’t the worst government videos I’ve watched (those were at the EDD when I was collecting unemployment insurance). A court clerk took roll call for all 187 of us, and it felt like we were right back in elementary school.

Once everyone was present, we were informed that no one would be excused as we were all assigned to a case. At first, I thought this was a prank. My experience watching “Jury Duty” – a hoax sitcom about a fake jury trial where everyone except one juror is an actor – was kicking in. There was no way a case could need 187 jurors. The judge on the case came into the room and confirmed that we were all needed – this would be a criminal trial.

For the next twenty minutes, the judge explained the purpose of jury service and how it is our civic duty and responsibility. By its very nature, it is inconvenient. People may try to get out of jury duty by saying, “I want to do this, but right now isn’t a good time,” but there will never be a good time. Life is busy, technology has only made our lives busier, and we all have responsibilities to manage outside a courthouse. That’s what makes this responsibility important. This is how our society functions and maintains fairness – we are all members of this community, and no individual, their work or their life, is more important than another. In the judge’s words, “No one is indispensable.” After giving us his spiel, he asked those who would not be attempting to excuse themselves from jury duty (for legitimate reasons such as significant financial hardship or medical hardship) to raise their hands. We were excused for the day and told to return the following morning to begin jury selection.

No individual, their work or their life, is more important than another.

THE COURTROOM

When I entered the courtroom the next day, I was surprised that only 84 people had returned. More than half of those summoned had been excused from jury duty. No wonder they started with such a large pool. Then began two days of jury selection. Ultimately, I was not selected to be on the jury, nor was I called up to be considered. But the jury selection process alone was an educational and eye-opening experience.

Twenty-four jurors were randomly selected to enter the courtroom's main area, while the rest of us remained behind a glass partition in the spectator area where we could still see and hear what was happening. Each juror was asked to introduce themselves by stating their full name, occupation, relationship status, how many adults they lived with, the occupation of those adults, if they had children, how long they’d lived in San Francisco, and whether they’d served on a jury before. Then the judge, defense attorney, and prosecution took turns asking the potential jurors general questions about their ability to follow the rule of law and the judge’s instructions and be a fair and impartial juror in this specific case. We were told it was a hit and run, and the defendant – a Black man in a wheelchair – was present in the courtroom as well.

As we listened to the potential jurors introduce themselves, it was clear there was a diverse representation of gender, age, and occupation. Tech workers sat next to social workers, lawyers next to restaurant servers, retirees next to students. Only in San Francisco would someone live in a commune with 75 other adults who were artists, students, actors, and so on.

Only in San Francisco would someone live in a commune with 75 other adults.

Three things stood out to me: 1) the majority of people did not have children, 2) each group that was called up had at least 2 people in the LGBTQ+ community, and 3) in the full room of 84 people, I saw only 4 who presented as Black, like the defendant. Living in San Francisco for the past 10 years, I know it is expensive to live here, let alone raise children. Hence the growing popularity of “DINK” households – Double Income, No Kids. That, coupled with the fact that the birth rate in the US is declining and families often move to suburban areas to raise their children, made sense to me. Hearing people identify their same-sex marriage or relationship was refreshing. How many cities in the US can say they are as open and welcoming to the LGBTQ+ community as San Francisco? I doubt jury panels in other cities can claim the same rates of LGBTQ+ representation. Yet, I couldn’t help but question the accuracy of the phrase “a jury of peers” when none of the potential jurors in the first group called up were Black. Sure, it would be a panel of fellow citizens of the defendant's city, but are they his peers? There is a historical pattern in San Francisco of marginalized populations being pushed to the fringes of the city as wealthy, majority white (and most recently startup and tech workers) move in. Some of this experience was captured in the 2019 film “The Last Black Man in San Francisco,” which depicts a young Black man’s “[search] for home in the changing city that seems to have left him behind.” To me, the absence of racial representation on the jury of his peers was stark.

The judge opened the voir dire process by asking the 24 potential jurors whether they understood the principle of “presumption of innocence” – the concept that a defendant is innocent until proven guilty beyond a reasonable doubt. One juror said that if they had to make a decision right now without any evidence, he would give a “guilty” verdict. When probed, they said this was because they had bad experiences with drivers in San Francisco while walking their dog and hated cars, so it was likely that the driver, the defendant, was guilty. Another said that they would take the defendant’s education level into consideration because, in their experience, more educated people are better drivers and less educated people are worse. Was it just me or did others think that person was making an unstated connection between the defendant’s skin color and education level?

During the questioning, it was alluded to that the defense would claim this was a case of mistaken identity – that the wrong person was being accused of this crime. I have no greater fear than being falsely accused of something, knowing the absolute truth, and being unable to clear my name. Or similarly, believing something profoundly to my core and being told I am lying. I cannot imagine what it must have been like for the defendant to sit in that room, potentially believing himself fully innocent, and hear that jurors might give a “guilty” verdict. Based on what? Based on the idea that they themselves would never be in this situation and thus could never be falsely accused? And if so, why was that the case? Was it because their skin color, education level, or socioeconomic status was different from the defendant, thus he must automatically be guilty?

Was it because their skin color, education level, or socioeconomic status was different from the defendant, thus he must automatically be guilty?

The judge moved on to the 5th Amendment and asked whether the potential jurors could understand why a defendant might “plead the Fifth” or exercise their right to remain silent and choose not to testify in a criminal case. One juror said that if the defendant didn’t testify, they were likely to view that as an admission of guilt because if the defendant was innocent, why wouldn’t he do everything in his power to clear his name? I’d seen enough courtroom television dramas to know that testifying on your own behalf, even if you were innocent, was likely to devolve into wordsmithing on behalf of the lawyers and getting flummoxed into saying the wrong thing.

One of the videos we watched on the first day was about implicit bias and how to be aware of your assumptions and experiences, and set those aside for the purposes of being as impartial as possible. The judge started with questions about police and law enforcement – would any of the potential jurors’ personal experiences or close relationships with members of law enforcement impact their ability to be fair in this specific case? It was interesting to hear the wide variety of perspectives and opinions that were clearly pro-police or anti-police. One juror said they would give the policeman’s word more credence based solely on the fact that they are a policeman; another said they would trust a policeman more if they had witnessed the accident. ACAB was not as present as I thought it would be. However, there was one juror who shared a negative experience with the police, who had been called to their home during an armed robbery, but the police did nothing – in fact, they let the machete-wielding perpetrator go free. What was their belief why no action was taken? Because their partner is Black.

We moved on to racial bias. The judge asked directly, “How does the defendant being Black change your ability to be fair given past and current injustices?” I didn’t expect a judge to admit to racial injustices openly in a court of law. It was as if he were admitting to there being racial inequities in the policing and legal systems and leaving it up to the people of the jury to right those wrongs and be held to higher standards when determining guilt or innocence. It felt profound but wrong at the same time. No one openly admitted to judging the defendant harder based on his race. Still, one juror shared that they would have the propensity to hold him to a lower threshold based on systemic racism and that they believed him less likely to be guilty based on his being Black. So maybe the judge was right to ask, particularly given studies have shown “all-white jury pools convict black defendants 16% more often than white [defendants].”

All-white jury pools convict black defendants 16% more often than white defendants.

Interestingly, they didn’t ask any questions about how the defendant’s visible disability might impact a juror’s ability to be impartial. Were these questions only asked in matters of race? What about national origin, sexual orientation, gender identity, politics, religion? The list could go on and on. So many things can color a person’s view of the world that we can’t go through all of them. But to only ask about race? I’m not sure how I feel about that. I suppose it did help pinpoint the jurors who were trying to come up with any reason whatsoever that might show they were impartial so that they would be excused. Every time someone would attempt that, the judge would ask, “Will it impact your ability to be fair?” and they’d respond, “I’ll try my best to be fair,” or “I want to be fair, but I’m unsure.”

Each time a juror shared a personal experience, the judge or attorney would show a surprising amount of empathy, saying, “I know this must be hard,” or “Thank you for sharing that difficult experience,” or “I’m sorry you went through that.” They were patient with the jurors, who were visibly nervous or didn’t speak English as their first language. They even questioned them to see if they could be the one singular opposing voice in the deliberation process. One juror said no. Even if they personally believed something different, they’d go along with the group.

JUROR EXPERIENCE

Every day, court started at 9:30 AM and was excused by 4:00 PM. We had a 15-minute break during the morning and afternoon sessions and a 90-minute break for lunch. Most jurors spent their break in the hallway, checking their phones since we couldn’t use them in the courtroom. I always made a point to go outside and get some fresh air on the stoop of the Hall of Justice. Like an airport, a courthouse is one of those places where you can see a cross-section of all different types of people in the same location – they all have completely different pasts and futures, but life caused their paths to cross in this one place for this one moment. 

Lawyers smartly dressed in suits and heels walked up the courthouse stairs. (After working at startups, I haven’t seen anyone wear a suit to work in years.) Family members huddled in hallways waiting for court to be in session so they could show their support. Young teens with tattoos shouted to their friends on speakerphone as they went through security. Unhoused individuals napped outside in corners of the building, some drug-addled, with their limited belongings by their side. One mentally unstable man yelled into a woman’s face, “Get out of my way you —-ing b—-” and continued to loudly mouth off to everyone as he passed down the block.

We jurors came and went on bikes, cars, or public transportation. The timing of court sessions means that we could skip rush hour traffic, and the parents amongst us could drop kids off and pick them up on time. Yes, jury duty is an inconvenience, but by definition, the fact that someone can be inconvenienced means that they started from a place of convenience. Unless someone had a legitimate reason to be excused on the first day, everyone here had the ability to complete their jury duty service. They had a job to call out from, a means of transport to get to the courthouse, and a mailing address where they could receive their summons in the mail. There are programs to help reimburse the cost of public transportation, validate parking tickets, and even pay you $100 per day if you qualify for the Be The Jury program.

By definition, the fact that someone can be inconvenienced means that they started from a place of convenience.

That’s why I cannot understand how, once voir dire was completed and 12 jurors and 3 alternates were selected, the remaining jurors audibly cheered when they were finally released – and this was in earshot of the defendant, a man who was claiming to be falsely accused, and the prosecutor, who was defending the laws and safety of the community we live in. At every step in the jury selection process, we jurors were reminded of our important role in our society, the civic responsibility we held in achieving justice, and how grateful they were for our service. Yet at the end of the day, we only cared about our lives, our time, our inconvenience. This must happen in every court case because the judge has what he calls an “NFL Rule” – a rule that jurors dismissed earlier in voir dire cannot cheer or celebrate as they leave the room.

COUNT ME IN

No one is above the law. Some of us may be more shielded or protected from it based on our unique privileges and power. While I’m sure the odds of me, a mixed-race Asian woman in my mid-30s, being in the same situation as the defendant are much lower, it is not impossible. And if I were ever in his shoes, I would be scared shitless – scared by our flimsy judicial system that admits to being unjust, scared by jurors who are only thinking of themselves, scared by our education system that hasn’t taught people to think critically, and scared by an imperfect jury selection process that, to me, really only showcased all of its imperfections.

Like voting and paying taxes, jury duty isn’t something we all necessarily want to do or feel good doing, but sometimes doing the hard thing is the right thing to do.

The cynic in me would say that the one thing I learned from this jury service is that I never want to be judged by “a jury of my peers.” My main takeaway: don’t commit any crimes and do my best to avoid being accused of one (which was already my unstated plan). But the cynic in me can’t win because cynics don’t believe in change and don’t make things better. As much as I’d like to change things about San Francisco and the US, I can’t do it from my high horse. I’m not better or more important than anyone else, my time is not more valuable, and my inconvenience is not greater. The next time I receive a jury summons, I can only hope to be inconvenienced (although I do hope I’m not still unemployed). And I wish the same for you. Like voting and paying taxes, jury duty isn’t something we all necessarily want to do or feel good doing, but sometimes doing the hard thing is right. To me, it’s my responsibility, it's my burden, and it’s my privilege. The next time my summons arrives in the mail, I'll be ready to serve.

Todos Santos, Mexico: Pueblo Mágico, Indeed

There are a lot of reasons I could give to explain why Todos Santos is one of my favorite places on Earth. My go-to response is: it’s the one place where my family and I go to do absolutely nothing. Apparently there is a ton to explore around Baja California Sur, but besides exploring the nearby beaches and driving over to La Paz (once, maybe twice?), we tend to stick to the town of Todos Santos, and more specifically Casa Luna — our house.

morning fog over the town of todos santos

morning fog over the town of todos santos

We stumbled upon Casa Luna during our first trip to Todos Santos in 2005. We’re not a family that usually vacations in the same place every year; we like to travel to new destinations. We’re also not a family that has ever purchased real estate on vacation; in fact, I don’t think that idea had ever crossed my parents’ minds, let alone in a foreign country. So when we ended up touring houses with a real estate agent after only spending 5 days in Todos Santos, it was pretty clear that this town had a special charm that made a strong impression on all of us. Casa Luna was one of the houses we saw on that tour; 15+ years later, Casa Luna is home.

when we bought our house, our street was so new it was called “calle sin nombre”

when we bought our house, our street was so new it was called “calle sin nombre”

Our agenda when we went to Todos Santos as a family was pretty simple:

  1. Go to the beach (in the early years for boogie boarding; in the later years for tanning)

  2. Drink margaritas (while watching the sunset)

  3. Read books (we’d average a book a day and pass them around)

  4. Eat tacos (and all the other amazing food we could find)

We were so content doing only those things. We didn’t have Internet access in the house, so we were forced to just be — to enjoy the house, the surroundings, the view (including the whales you could see from our rooftop), and each other’s company. We’d make a trip once a day to a cafe or restaurant to have a meal (or a smoothie, or a margarita) and access the Internet to check our email (and later, social media). We watched the sunset every single night, without fail.

la esquina - our favorite spot for wifi and 2-for-1 margaritas

la esquina - our favorite spot for wifi and 2-for-1 margaritas

casa luna - our favorite spot for whale watching and sunset viewing

casa luna - our favorite spot for whale watching and sunset viewing

Over the years, we invited our family and friends to join us, starting with my mom’s best friend who helped furnish the house. The two of them schlepped a 16-passenger van back and forth between Todos Santos and Cabo San Lucas — on what used to be a 2-lane road along rocky seaside cliffs, where the combination of slow-moving 16-wheelers and impatient drivers who liked to pass on a curve made the drive quite treacherous.

brick building

Every single trip I made to Todos Santos has a memory like that:

  • The initial trips where we were “those people” at the airport bringing way too much luggage for a vacation in Cabo. Little did our fellow travelers know our suitcases weren’t full of vacation wear, but linens, towels, and dishes for Casa Luna.

  • The time we were at Los Cerritos Beach (before it had been built up) and my high school bestie saw two boys struggling in a riptide so she swam out to save them (successfully!) but almost drowned herself.

  • The time when my grandpa tripped down some stairs and ended up at urgent care. The two of us were taken into a dimly-lit, sterile, concrete room with dark spots on the walls (blood?) and left alone. My big, strong, non-Spanish speaking grandfather who has never needed my help grabbed my arm and said, “Don’t leave me.”

  • The time with my aunt at Christmas where we cleared out the living room and had a dance party. The only Christmas decorations we had were an angel carved out of wood and our chili pepper lights. We still have those decorations.

  • The college roommate trip where my parents picked us up at the airport, loaded us up with food at Costco, took us out to dinner, and then left the 8 of us alone on our own in Mexico (thanks mom and dad!). We mis-timed our return to the airport and I ended up driving us back to Cabo in our rented minivan at approximately 2x the speed limit. We all made our flights.

  • The time my mom asked me to check on the house with her after Hurricane Odile struck in 2014 (it was so strong that it destroyed the SJD airport). It was a 4-day trip (the shortest trip I’ve ever taken to Todos Santos), which meant only two full days of tanning. So while my mom went around repairing damages to the house, my princess self laid out on the deck and tanned. (Sorry, mom.)

  • The multiple times I came with friends that were full of strawberry daiquiris on the beach (Los Cerritos had been built up by then and had its own beach club), esquites in Doritos bags (don’t knock it ’til you try it), and driving Mexico-style (aka with a small post-margarita buzz). But mostly, they had to adjust to how I do things down here — to do nothing and to be quiet — and to their credit, they (mostly) complied.

  • The two times when Casa Luna was rented but my craving for Todos Santos was so strong that I reached out to friends in town and was able to stay in their empty casitas. It helped me learn that even if I’m not staying at Casa Luna, I can still come to Todos Santos and have an amazing time. (The knowledge of which is helpful knowing that as I write this, this will be my last day in Casa Luna.)

  • The time I brought my grandma here after her house burnt down in the Camp Fire in 2018. She got to escape “reality and the smoke that still lingered in California, and spend time with my aunt (her daughter) who was living in Casa Luna at the time. It was a trip that neither she, nor I, realized was so badly needed.

  • The many times with my siblings when we invented games like “Tope” and phrases like “TTT” and had sunset photo shoots (thank goodness Instagram hadn’t been invented yet). The laughs and the memories are endless.

todos has the best sunsets, hands down

todos has the best sunsets, hands down

My most recent trip to Todos Santos is coming to an end tomorrow, and with it, my time at Casa Luna. The house is in escrow, and having been on the market for several years now, it’s about time.

I was fortunate to get to spend the past two months here. For me, it was an opportunity to end 2020 on a different note than the rest of the year; it was a chance to take some time for myself after experiencing a lot of loneliness and isolation; and it was a moment to have with this house and in this town that I love.

casa luna
moon

Considering we were still in a pandemic when I came down here, I knew that I might have to roll with the punches because conditions and regulations were changing all the time. What I didn’t know is that I’d be dealing with a whole other set of challenges: having my purse and wallet stolen from my house (while I was home), quarantining from my roommate who thought he had Covid (thank goodness he didn’t), having my passport and camera stolen in a second robbery (also while I was home), and then carrying my remaining valuables on my person every second of every day until I departed.

hierbabuena
taller 17
garden

Through all of those challenges, I had incredible support, not only from my family at home but from friends and neighbors (old and new!) here in Todos Santos. When I had to quarantine from my roommate, our neighbors across the street brought me food. When my passport was stolen, our next-door neighbors printed the paperwork I needed to confirm my identity. When I had to file a police report, a woman from the neighborhood watch group (who also happens to live down the street) accompanied me to the police station multiple times.

I never thought that my aunt being in Todos Santos at the same time would turn out to be a blessing in disguise as well. When I needed a physical outlet for my stress, we played tennis; when I needed moral support, she provided the wine; when I needed a car to go to the police station, she lent me her Jeep; when I needed someone to spend the night after the second robbery when I could still smell his presence, I didn’t even have to ask. At every turn, these people checked in on me, made sure I was okay, gave me updates on what was happening in the neighborhood and town, and in general, were just good people.

flags
caffe todos santos
bougainvillea

As I walked around the neighborhood today to say “thank you” and “goodbye” to everyone, that’s the lasting impression I’m left with — it’s the people. It’s the many family members and friends who we shared this house, town, and some of our favorite memories with; it’s the neighbors and friends we met along the way who opened their homes to us, including the woman who first invited us to stay at her house in 2005; it’s the locals who have always been kind, curious, and welcoming. The kindness, humor, and generosity that I received from all of them is what will last with me the longest.

beach

In 2005, my parents made a crazy decision to purchase a house in a foreign country where they didn’t speak the language. Their “midlife crisis” did not come without its challenges of navigating home ownership in Mexico and managing a property from 1,600 miles away. When I think about the many changes to life, family, and health that have occurred over the past 15+ years, I recognize the risk and sacrifice they made, and I could not be more grateful to them and the choice they made to give our family this special place in space and time. I’d say it paid off.

There is something special about Todos Santos — the people it attracts, and especially those who see and feel that spark, and those who choose to stay (or come back many times). My time and experiences here have taught me that you can make a home anywhere you go. If you’re willing to embrace a place with all its challenges and setbacks (and the rogue ladrón), it will embrace you right back. So with that: Thank you, Todos Santos. You are magic.

veronica at casa luna
ocean sunset

Recommendations approved by the Reed Wong Family

Restaurants

  • La Esquina - they serve mostly breakfast and lunch and they have a great setting and service

  • Fonda El Zaguán - our go-to order: guacamole and totopos, fish or shrimp in beurre blanc, and arrachera (they’re now operating out of La Morena)

  • Miguel’s Restaurant - best chile rellenos in town

  • Caffe Todos Santos - great breakfast; try their chilaquiles, smoothies, and pastries (we love the turnovers)

Cafes

  • Baja Beans - on Sundays there’s often an outdoor market with local artisans and live music

Places

  • Los Cerritos Beach

  • Las Palmas Beach

Additional Recommendations approved by Veronica

Restaurants

  • Tacos El Poblano - best al pastor tacos; I get them “con todo” on flour tortillas

  • Hierbabuena - eat from their garden while sitting in their garden; it’s a beautiful setting

  • El Refugio Mezcaleria - Thursday is pozole night; I highly recommend their cooking class

  • Emmanuel Fish Tacos - best fish tacos; stop on your way back from Cerritos

  • Restaurant Bar Bahía - huge portions of ceviche

Bars

Cafes

  • Taller 17 - a little grab-and-go place with the best pastries (the sticky buns are my favorite)

  • Docecuarenta - fancy (and big!) new cafe on the edge of town with a hipster vibe

  • Coffee Shop Las Tunas - cute (and well priced!) coffee shop in a relaxed, garden setting

Viñales, Cuba: Off the Beaten Path, Onto a Dirt Road

When you think of Cuba, you might imagine an ice cold mojito, a warm cubano, a classic car chugging down the street, Fidel and Raul Castro in their revolutionary green caps, or a colorful street lined with lively Cuban people. But I would bet the image of Cuba that pops into most people’s minds is: the Cuban cigar.

tobacco leaves hung to dry

tobacco leaves hung to dry

Cuban cigars have been treasured for centuries. The Taíno Indians, the native peoples of Cuba, were already smoking tobacco in a cigar-like form when Christopher Columbus landed in the Caribbean in the 15th century. Before authorizing the U.S. trade embargo in 1962 and effectively making them contraband, President John F. Kennedy ordered one of his aides to bring back 1,200 hand-rolled cigars from Cuba.

I am not a huge smoker (cigar, cigarette, or otherwise), but there was no way I was going to Cuba and not exploring this part of the country’s history and culture. It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Havana to Viñales — the name of both the city and the valley that are home to Cuba’s tobacco fields. Some travel guides say you can make a day trip out of it, but if you want to experience the true Viñales, you have to take it slow.

every front porch has two rocking chairs and a laundry line

every front porch has two rocking chairs and a laundry line

Everywhere in Cuba, people live the stoop life: Whether it’s on the stairs in front of their house or a second floor balcony, they find a comfortable chair, turn it toward the street, grab a cigar or a mojito, and people-watch. They holler to their neighbors as they walk by, invite friends in to join them for a drink, and thoroughly enjoy the passage of time from sun up to sundown. Nowhere is this more true than in Viñales. Every house, or casa particular, has a front porch with two rocking chairs (which are usually painted to complement the color of the house). Without moving, they beckon you to take a load off, grab a good book, and rock away the afternoon. And that’s exactly what we did. After some exploring, of course.

the stoop life

the stoop life

To avoid the challenges of renting a car in an unfamiliar country and navigating the roads without access to Google Maps, we decided to hire a driver to take us from Havana to Viñales, which ended up having its own challenges. We woke up at 7 a.m. to start the drive, and from the get go, we were on Cuban time. Our driver was MIA for 30 minutes while we tried to get in touch with the car company (by turning on our much-prized and very expensive data roaming). We eventually got in contact with him; he had gotten lost in the city but was on his way. When we arrived in Viñales, our driver couldn’t find our casa particular — not because it was hidden, but because they use family names to identify their houses instead of addresses, so we had to go around asking “Donde está Casa Tita?” When we finally arrived over an hour late, our tour guide, Dior, was patiently waiting there with a huge smile on his face, telling us not to worry: “This is Cuba!”

We hopped into a new car with Dior, and with a jovial “Ok? Let’s go!” (a catch phrase he repeated roughly every five minutes), we were off. A few of the stops — Cueva del Indio, El Jardín de Caridad, and El Mural de la Prehistoria — were deemed “must-see’s” and, while I’m glad I saw them once, I can’t say I’d go back again. We were really there to learn about cigars. Our first stop was a large warehouse where we observed the process of drying and curing tobacco leaves — a process that can take up to three months. Several women sat at small wooden tables flattening and classifying the leaves by size and color. They’d rip the stem from the leaf, removing the nicotine (who knew the nicotine was stored in the stem?!), and were paid based on how many leaves they could process in a day.

removing the stems, aka nicotine

removing the stems, aka nicotine

women are paid by the leaf

women are paid by the leaf

With another hearty “Ok? Let’s go!” we headed out along a dirt road to a farm where we met a fourth-generation tobacco farmer. With a cigar hanging from the corner of his mouth (one of 10 he smokes every day), he showed us how to roll a cigar. His calloused hands and wrinkled face told the story of years of hard work accompanied by the enjoyment of many cigars. With 90% of tobacco leaves going to the government, farmers get to keep only 10% of their annual production, and they make sure to reserve the best for themselves (as they should). Unlike the cigars produced in factories, their cigars are all organic — no pesticides or fertilizers are added, and they even use honey to seal the cigars. We smoked a cigar with him, drank a Cuban (read: strong) coffee his wife brewed, purchased some organic cigars (as long as they are traditionally packaged, you can bring them back into the U.S. without any labeling or a receipt), and headed back to the town of Viñales.

farmer rolling a cigar by hand

farmer rolling a cigar by hand

afternoon smoke break

afternoon smoke break

Upon returning to our casa particular, we were greeted by our host, who offered a refreshing mango juice and showed us to our room. We had an entire half of the house to ourselves. Although it was fairly basic, we didn’t need much more in this rural setting. While my boyfriend took a nap, I wandered through the fields and along dirt paths, observing how life is lived in Viñales: A farmer eagerly posed his two cows for my camera as they plowed; shirts, jeans, and undergarments fluttered on clotheslines outside every house; neighbors chatted from across the street or the next floor up; pigs and chickens roamed freely; and tourists could be heard laughing as they went horseback riding through the fields. With a mojito in one hand and a book in the other, I curled up in a rocking chair and spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying life, Viñales-style.

plowing a field, posing his cows, and smoking a cigar — impressive

plowing a field, posing his cows, and smoking a cigar — impressive

pig and laundry
chicken

While Viñales is the second-most visited city in Cuba and may not technically be “off the beaten path,” it certainly feels like you’re stepping into another world when you visit. Lush green fields meet dirt roads, hard work is celebrated with lazy afternoons, smiles are contagious, and the best thing to do is soak it all in from a rocking chair on the front porch with a smoldering cigar perched between your lips.

woman in pink house
white dress
modes of transportation
tobacco warehouse